Please look at the step by step guide for cleaning it and thank us later. x 24 Tooth Ripping Saw Blade corrosion Super thin laser cut kerf for fast, durable, and clean cuts I run these on all my table saws. Ideal For: Cuts clean flat bottom grooves in materials such as veneered plywoods and laminates to solid wood. The CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner is non-flammable but we still need to work in a well ventilated area. Re: Cleaning Resinous Buildup from Table Saw Blade Another way that works an I use. Accessories like our framing, ripping, general purpose, fine finish, ultra fine finish and fiber cement blades deliver precision and durability In essence, a table saw is a circular saw turned upside down, and instead of feeding the blade into wood, you feed wood into the blade. With time, the circular saw blade can accumulate grime. You should note, however, if your table saw blade has lots of grime and grease, you should leave it longer. In essence, a table saw is a circular saw turned upside down, and instead of feeding the blade into wood, you feed wood into the blade. There are a few benefits to keeping your blades clean there are also some benefits to throwing out those old ones for a brand new blade. Cleaning saw blades regularly, before the build up becomes severe, makes this an easy task. NOTE: Please use caution as saw blades are sharp! Step 1. Also, depending on the ratio of water to the cleaning agent, you can let it soak longer or shorter. A saw may be one of the most resilient - and most dangerous - tools in your workshop. These steps should keep your table saw blades in top form. Remove the wooden handle on all handheld-type saws using the screwdriver. Keep the body and face to one side of the saw blade out of the line of a possible kickback. Like the 409 because the sprayer is handy and There’s really no need to rinse after cleaning. At least those would yield fine dust, not fibrous chunks.Terry Alexander >I know there are "kits" out there for cleaning pitch and gum off of table saw blades. And personally, I think because FPS IS soft and gummy/pithy, it'd be MORE dangerous than something with more attitude, lie bubinga, ipe, or rock maple. *"Fir/Pine/Spruce" (softwoods), not "first person shooter", JIC. It's so the tooth profiles don't press on one another, which would bend your blades, make it possible for said nut to loosen and give you a good chance of ballistic carbide, to boot. If your arbor nut is that loose you have other, much bigger concerns. Which, by the by, isn't so the blades "won't spin into each other". Just stagger the teeth so the blade isn't bent when you crank home your arbor nut. If it were me, I'd limit myself to TWO stacked blades (that aren't designed for the purpose), so each has at least one lateral plane available to it for ejecta, unless it's something trivial like a bunch of finger joints. But "ripping a 1-1/2-inch dado lengthways in a 16-foot FPS* 2x4"? If you're really lucky you'll only knock yourself out. If you're making 1/2" box or finger joint cuts through the face of panel material on a sled? Knock yourself out! As many as the arbor will hold! Maybe 1/4 of the teeth will engage before you're done anyway. Species, moisture content, grain, ambient humidity, lunar cycle, mother's maiden name, along with the ever-critical "is my lumber just going to be a dick about this?" no doubt all play a role. I'm just talking theory (if you wanna call the engineering design considerations "theory") here. Now, don't take this as me preaching doom and gloom. Like, the "orbital escape velocity" flavor. And with that many teeth taking a deep bite simultaneously, any hiccup is begging for kickback. All those middle blades take a bite, and can't shed the waste from any direction but straight OUT vertically (vs vertically and sideways). Go faster? And you just hit on the concern I'd have, after the torque considerations, of course: the blade(s) binding. Same reason rip blades have deep gullets and fewer teeth: fast, hack and slash removal, deep, wide disposal. That's why he have chip-breakers in dado stacks: they also serve to even out the cut, sure, but even more critically, they provide a place for all the excess sawdust to GO, and a spinning "arm" to help ensure it DOES. The more volume of wood being cut, then more waste material/sawdust there is that needs removing, QED. The other one, as briefly touched upon by the OP, is chip clearance. Especially when they're tearing through a substance as chewy as wood. It DOES take significantly more energy to move that many large blades. It is dangerous for two reasons: first, as stated, torque. I know I'm really late to the party on this guys, but since I only heard half of the answer, I want to toss in.